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It’s hard to beat the earthiness and depth of flavor from a freshly sculpted corn tortilla, hot off the comal. But my fondness for flour will never abate, albeit for different reasons. Stretchy, elastic, pull-apart flour tortillas have simply no match as far as texture. Smooth and pliable, and decadently chewy, even when blistered on the griddle, they’re also the perfect vehicles to overstuff with meat and vegetables until bursting at the seams.
No one is crafting these lissome marvels better right now than El Ruso, a trailer parked semi-permanently in an industrial area off of Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights. And there’s no better showcase for the northern Mexican staple than in the sobaquera, a Sonora-style burrito wrapped in an almost comically oversize tortilla de harina, and the focus of this most recent episode of our video series What We’re Into.