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L A s First Afro-Mexican Restaurant Highlights Mexico s African History
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A takeout window seems an apt location to begin thinking through some of the Los Angeles restaurants that managed not only to open in 2020, but also to enrich the city’s culture with creative achievement and personal narrative. This carryout setup operates from the quiet interior courtyard of Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza, its mustard-colored façade embellished with a lone ribbon of red neon. Out of its sliding-glass panes appear outlandish sandwiches devised by one of the city’s defining chefs.
Wes Avila, the creator of Guerrilla Tacos, opened
Angry Egret Dinette in late October. One of his early imaginings was the Mookie Melt, a bucking bull on a bolillo roll that charged wildly and deliciously in all directions.
This year, our annual compendium of dining debuts looks very different. There’s no talk of buzzy scenes, dazzling design, and intricate plating. Instead, it’s takeout, shifting business models, and struggles to survive. We’ve lost loved ones and beloved businesses, but amidst the devastation and heartbreak of the past year, one thing that’s remained constant is the power of restaurants to comfort, to bring us together, even when we’re only able to order delivery and gather with the members of our immediate household. So we’re celebrating an exciting, eclectic array of establishments, new and old, that have nourished both our bodies and spirits. Bon appetit!
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As we try to deal with the 2020 pandemic freight train that continues to barrel over us, we should note a few bright spots including the opening of a bricks-and-mortar location, in Bell Gardens, of Tamales Elena y Antojitos, which had for years operated out of a truck in the Watts neighborhood (the truck still operates).
In this episode of “Off Menu,” host and columnist Lucas Kwan Peterson visits Maria Elena Lorenzo and her family, who work to bring dishes from their Afro-Mexican heritage and Guerrerense flavors to the public.
Lorenzo and her daughters, Judept Irra, Teresa Irra, Nayeli Irra, Maria Irra and Heidie Irra, are primarily responsible for running the day-to-day operations of the restaurant. They specialize in tamales, naturally, made with different fillings and tender, moist masa stuffed into either corn husks or banana leaves. They also make outstanding moles: deep, chile-rich sauces that are typically served with meat.
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