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All chicken, all the time [restaurant review]
SHARE Bird Talk offers its original chicken sandwich with buttermilk ranch mayo and a Cajun chicken sandwich with a ghost pepper aioli. Photo by JP Cordero
A Bird Talk dinner unboxed. From top left, a spicy chicken sandwich, Parmesan wings, original sandwich, tots, and Nashville half chicken. Photo
Thanks to the pandemic I’ve been gravitating toward restaurants that offer food that travels well. Looking at it from a historical perspective, this makes fried chicken a natural. It was a component of picnic lunches in the mid-19th century, a staple at the Harvey House railroad cafes in the 1870s, and the only entrée offered for the first inflight dinners in the 1930s. When properly made it has the combination of salt, spice, crunchy batter, and succulent meat to please almost everybody, even if it’s served some distance from where it’s made. It’s probably the most hallowed take-out meal in American cuisine.