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Print The 6-inch cake that pastry chef Casey Shea delivered was a barrel-shaped whirl of salted vanilla buttercream, sequined with sliced berries and candied kumquats. On an early March menu, Shea had presented her customers, who ordered via Instagram, with four cake options: coconut chocolate, banana hazelnut, blood orange with lemon whip and blackberry and a surprise chef’s choice based on what she found at the farmers markets. A good kind of surprise could be uplifting right now, I thought. Springtime was in view. Maybe there’d be some ripe red fruit layered underneath the frosting? Newsletter Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.

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