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Meet S F s newest torta pop-up, where Tartine alum play with the great Mexican sandwich
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November 5, 2016
Do you know anyone who doesn’t like tacos? Our bottomless appetite for them shatters all barriers of income, tradition, and innovation. So after months of tasting those that reverently play by the rules and others that gleefully break them, we offer this diverse lineup of marvels. Each is either a model of its type say, taco al pastor or stretches our notions in a provocative way. The ranking is capricious, as some fabulous tacos fell off our list for reasons of inconsistency. Our basic guideline: If we could only have one right now, which would it be? Any one of these, day or night.
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Paragons previously named as Los Angeles Times Restaurant of the Year Locol, Taco Maria, Bavel and Orsa & Winston came with some name recognition, usually from gales of deserved good press or a tenured standing in the community.
But you may not have yet heard of the 2021 recipient, Phenakite, an ambitious and quietly radical fine-dining project conceived in the eye of the pandemic’s storm.
Chef Minh Phan at her fine-dining restaurant, Phenakite.
(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
You might know its creator, Minh Phan: She’s the chef and owner of Porridge + Puffs in Historic Filipinotown. A bedrock of the L.A. food industry, Phan’s standing among her peers stems from both her cooking (soothing, but also sneakily pyrotechnic in its use of pickles, savory jams and other acidic blasts) and her leadership. Joining forces with organizations including Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement, Food Forward, SEE-LA and Miry’s List, she jumps in to feed seniors and resid
Chile crisp and salsa macha are taking over the kitchens of spicy food lovers Listen 9 min MORE Chile crisp in jars. Chile crisp relies on infusing a mixture of chiles and aromatics like onion and garlic, along with proprietary spice in a generous bath of hot oil. Photo by Ken Concepcion.
Evan Kleiman predicts 2021 to be the year of peak chile crisp and its cousin salsa macha. Both chile crisp and salsa macha rely on infusing a mixture of chiles and aromatics like onion and garlic, along with proprietary spice in a generous bath of hot oil. Often nuts and seeds are added. Versions range from truly fiery to a friendly bit of sting, depending on the chiles used.
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