February 6, 2021
Jen Rose Smith
THE WASHINGTON POST – On a grey afternoon last November, I sat down to a meal that evoked Istanbul cafes where just the year before I had feasted at the edge of the sun-streaked Bosporus. Dried sumac speckled a plate of shaved radishes and fennel, and the main course was lamb ragout, ladled over satiny eggplant puree. It was Thanksgiving dinner, 2020.
After cancelling a planned gathering for pandemic-obvious reasons, I ignored suggestions for wan, scaled-down menus featuring chicken legs and miniature pie for two. Instead I reached for a Turkish cookbook, trading holiday traditions for a culinary voyage.
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