As Ermenegildo Zegna leans from the house metier of tailoring toward a reset masculine wardrobe hybridized from workwear and sportswear, Z Zegna is meeting it from the opposite direction. This second line, which a while back was itself reset to encompass the phased-out Zegna Sport collection, has in recent seasons (especially those shown in the Pitti pavilion) leaned heavily on the “technical.” There were plenty of fine techy garms here, but there was also a fresh emphasis on tailoring unseen at this label for a while.
A jacket featuring a novel scarf collar plus various others in Alessandro Sartori’s favored slimming but substantial 1.5 breasted shape were the surprise interlopers here. Against them were played some outerwear and knits whose vibe was distinctly un-technical: peacoats, high-collar overcoats, long ribbed cardigans (sometimes styled over jackets, which was mind-melting), and swoopy blanket shawls in an abstract botanical pattern. These were all delivered in a me