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Stella s Cafe: Dirty Fries ($8) 19 W. Main Ave., 290-5927, stellastogo.com While many of us might worship Guy Fieri s trailblazing sense of hair care and fashion (or not), we can all agree the dude knows his way around tasty comfort food. So it was no surprise that when he pulled his Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives convertible up to Ruins door a few years back, he found his way to sing the praises of Chef Tony Brown s dirty fries. During the pandemic, Brown moved the dish to Stella s in Saranac Commons, but the appeal remains the same: Delicious, crispy fries covered in a house-made aioli, salsa verde and melt-in-your-mouth pork shoulder. The dirty fries are priced like a side, but they easily make a meal and a damn good one at that. (DAN NAILEN)

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