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American Climber Charlie Porter Dies in Punta Arenas
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Chantel Astorga completes first female solo of Denali s Cassin Ridge in 14 hours, 39 minutes
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Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska
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K2 Aviation runs scenic flights around Denali, America’s highest point at 20,310 feet, and transports aspiring summiters to basecamp. On a routine flight in early March this year, pilot Chris Palm noticed something unusual on the flanks of the mountain. The normally uniform Muldrow Glacier was sliced and diced with exceptionally large cracks and crevasses. Not in one spot, but everywhere. The glacier looked like it was falling apart.
The Muldrow is a 39-mile long glacier that starts high on the northeastern slope of Denali and flows into the McKinley River. It’s one of four main routes to the summit (the others are the West Buttress, West Rib, and Cassin Ridge), and for the last 60 years, it has flowed downhill at a rate of 3 to 11 inches per day. It’s now moving at a blistering pace (for a glacier) of 30 to 60 feet per day, or up to 100 times faster than usual.
The tools of the modern alpinist have changed so much over the past 40 years that many are unrecognizable when compared with the objects that they evolved from. Waffled polyester has replaced wool, bent shaft carbon fiber ice tools are used in the stead of steel axes, and colorful camming devices are placed gently into granite cracks where the scars from hammered metal wedges still linger.
But there is one ingredient to a successful ascent that is more important than any specialized tool: an idea. The idea that the physical exhaustion, psychological turmoil and inherent risk encountered on an ascent are worth overcoming. The idea that the experience has intrinsic value.