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Island Style: 10 Top-Rated White Wines from Sicily and Sardinia
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Ancient Vines and High Altitudes: Meet the Rising Winemaking Stars of Etna
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When Alessandro Pavoni of Ormeggio at The Spit declared his new waterside restaurant at Crown Sydney to be a return to the glamorous, service-oriented dining rooms of the past, the words Oh dear came to mind. The last thing we need, I thought, is a big, expensive, pretentious restaurant.
Certainly, a Mare is big, with two levels of dining (downstairs is best) and a broad terrace laid out before the bay views across to Balmain.
At last count, the floor staff numbered 100 and they re still hiring. If you re not careful, you ll be greeted by four different smiling people at the door, and escorted to your table past white-suited bartenders who call out cheery greetings.
Unusual grape varieties from less well-known places that have been used to dazzling effect
‘Like nothing else around’: wines from Istria in Croatia are satisfying and refreshing. Photograph: Getty Images
‘Like nothing else around’: wines from Istria in Croatia are satisfying and refreshing. Photograph: Getty Images
Sun 21 Feb 2021 01.00 EST
Kozlovic Teran, Istria, Croatia 2019 (£13.05, vinvm.co.uk) I’m a bit reluctant to talk about the “exotic” or the “off-the-beaten-track” in wine. As with their use in every other context, these terms rather assume that yours is the perspective that counts. Of course, the exotic isn’t exotic when you live there. And stories of deviating from the well-trodden path carry with them a whiff of the brave, possibly even pith-helmeted culinary explorer unveiling their supposedly weird and wonderful finds to the folks back home. Still, exploring the less-talked-about areas of the wine world has been a bit of preoccupation for me in
illustration: Gerry Selian
VinePair wine enthusiasts, we hear you! Readers have told us how hard it has been to discover new wines during the pandemic. Somms are in short supply, as many restaurants are still closed. Online wine platforms have algorithms that prioritize the same big brands, and many customers are still picking up their wine shop orders curbside. So we reached out to wine professionals we admire to ask for their help. With the challenge to build a 12-bottle case for under $250, these wine pros sifted through hundreds of bottles to find the best case possible so you don’t have to. (And for wine pros who work with a brand, we also let them choose one of their own wines to highlight.) Then, we choose a retailer that ships nationally, and the pros only learn which retailer they’ll be choosing from after they accept the challenge. Their only guidance? Find wines that will wow wine enthusiasts.
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