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“Nobody smells chicken and thinks of racism! I remember the first time I felt nervous about what I was eating. “Nervous,” as opposed to “apprehensive,” which describes how I felt the first time I ate ant eggs, corn smut, and rattlesnake at some alta cocina temple in Tijuana. (I needn’t have: the eggs were textural, the smut was trufflesque, and the rattlensake resembled, you guessed it, a richer, gamier chicken.) Nervous, as in, “Is this okay?” It was my first time dining at Arterra, the Del Mar restaurant co-founded by James Beard-award winning chef Bradley Ogden and local star Carl Schroeder, who went on to open Market Restaurant + Bar. I don’t remember the menu’s exact wording, but it must have been a helluva write-up, because the highly descriptive verbiage somehow obscured what became clear to me upon the dish’s arrival: I had ordered a very fancy version of fried chicken and watermelon. The watermelon was done three ways: a shooter of consommé, shredd

Baja californiaUnited statesGabriel iglesiaBradley ogdenCarl schroederAnchor barDel marJames beard awardMarket restaurantFood americanaDavid pageColonel sandersSouth americaபஜா கலிஃபோர்னியாஒன்றுபட்டது மாநிலங்களில்கேப்ரியல் இகிலேசிய