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It’s been a year since anyone has eaten a juicy rib-eye or a bowl of impossibly fragrant Thai curry or anything, for that matter inside a packed Toronto restaurant, an experience once as central to life in this food-obsessed town as piling onto the streetcar at rush hour. (That, we don’t miss.) Since then, more than 10,000 restaurants have reportedly closed across Canada hundreds in Toronto taking countless jobs along with them. The rest continue to scrape by on a mix of takeout, delivery and outdoor dining, along with Covid relief funds and, if they’re lucky, flexible landlords.
Some of the most successful restaurants in Toronto right now are ones you’ve never heard of. These are restaurants with wincingly pun-forward names (Wrap Me Up, Bite Me Grill), or names that evoke locations they don’t really occupy. They’ve never offered in-person dining, have no front-of-house staff to furlough, often don’t have physical storefronts. They share commissary or hub kitchens capable of producing dozens of cuisines, with food prepared exclusively for takeout or delivery, which makes its way to customers through third-party apps like Uber Eats, DoorDash and SkipTheDishes. Some of these restaurants are, in a way, fictional. The food, of course, is real (and of a quality that varies as much as restaurants themselves do), but all the things associated with a sit-down restaurant ambience, aesthetics, knowledgable servers carrying plates and flatware have been abandoned in the name of convenience, choice, necessity and speed.
Seven Toronto food trends from 2020 we want to stick around
It was an overall terrible year for restaurants and bars, but the COVID crisis also spurred creativity By Kelsey Adams
Samuel Engelking
To say 2020 was tough for Toronto’s restaurant and hospitality industry would be a vast understatement.
Running a restaurant or a bar in good times involves thin margins, uncanny adaptiveness and flexibility and this year stretched owners and staff to their absolute limit.
We lost many favourite spots that were integral to their neighbourhoods. Community hubs with storied local histories like Furama Bakery in Chinatown, Apiecalypse Now! in Koreatown and Cold Tea in Kensington Market, will be sorely missed.
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