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Exactly a year ago, on a Sunday morning in Milan, my colleagues and I were lining up to congratulate Raf Simons on his new job at Prada. That day, amid news of the pandemic, Giorgio Armani would be the first designer to cancel attendance for his show. After Dolce & Gabbana – where I can first recall hesitating before hugging – I rushed through the streets and back to the lobby of the Grand, which soon turned into the Fashion Situation Room. Phones were going off, flights were rebooked, and not long after, some of us boarded a plane to Paris, in a hurry, as if we were on the run. Two weeks later, as the global lockdowns set in, we’d realise the magnitude of it all. And that Prada press conference – Simons’s new tenure – would come to represent something we never saw coming: a fashion reset; an emotionally ambivalent approach to dressing fuelled by a year in confinement and a fashion mindset suspended between a wardrobe apathy and a longing for glamour.

France generalUnited kingdomJeremy scottAngela missoniPierpaolo piccioliKim jonesFranco moschinoDomenico dolcePaul andrewKirsty humeIan griffithsMiuccia pradaFrancesco rissoRaf simonsKarl lagerfeldSalvatore ferragamo