With Burns Night nigh upon us, breaking up the January gloom, Sophie McLean takes on something of a whisky pilgrimage into Speyside, and its spiritual home. Bouncing atop four large wheels, coursing off-road and splashing through giant puddles, an authentically beaten-up Land Rover Defender carries us from Chapeltown over lesser-trodden parts of Scotland's Crown Estate, out into the Glenlivet and her brush strokes of green, purple and gold. Boots on frosty gravel crunch their way past cockerels, a wheelbarrow, firewood and fencing to reach a pretty stone cottage from which we survey this hauntingly beautiful landscape. From here, Zeki Başan, son of cookery class host and author Ghillie Başan, whose family home this is, accompanies us over streams and into the nearby forest, teaching us what this part of the world can offer us in terms of foraged food. When it comes to herbs, we look at wild wood sorrel, mountain thyme and wood bitter cress. We discuss the magic of mushrooms, par