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Normal text size Very large text size At Australia’s westernmost point lies the Coral Coast, a land of strange extremities. Marine megafauna is more accessible than ever before. Tourists swim with humpbacks and manta rays and whale sharks. They hand-feed playful dolphins that obligingly stick out scarred and blemished dorsal fins scientists can use to identify them as individuals, name them and track their social behaviours. But nearby the dugong’s nose breaks the water only to breathe and then it sinks back down, out of sight. The sight of dugongs and their cousins, the manatees, once led sailors to believe they had seen mermaids, hence the name of the order they belong to: sirenia. But although they are legendary, they are shy and cryptic creatures.

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