Once upon a time, not too long ago, the phrase vegan cuisine could have been considered an oxymoron.
Bland, frozen meatless patties were passed off as burgers, and plates of vegetables were considered entrees. Soy milk was the only nondairy option, and the salads. Oh, the salads.
But lucky for plant-based eaters, things have changed. Chefs are frying oyster mushrooms until golden and crispy, fulfilling fried chicken cravings. Cashews and nutritional yeast, blitzed in a blender with a little hot water, make a creamy cheese sauce to toss with pasta. Hearts of palm, chopped and mixed with breadcrumbs, pass for crab cakes; smashed chickpeas stand in for tuna.