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Chile s Aysén Region Is a Dreamscape of Towering Mountains, Crystalline Lakes, and Sublime Glaciers Simon Willis © Provided by Travel + Leisure Stefan Ruiz From left: Winding for 800 miles through the Aysén region, the Carretera Austral showcases some of Chile’s most spectacular scenery; the 8,775-foot summit of Cerro Castillo, named for its resemblance to a castle, with Lake Cerro Castillo in the foreground. There were six of them: two adults and four kids, cycling up an unpaved mountain road on three tandem bicycles. As my girlfriend, Charlie, and I careered past, we looked at the family and wondered momentarily whether our choice of transport was the wimp s way to get around. In our sturdy, air-conditioned 4 x 4 we felt insulated from the rigors of the road, from the extreme geography and the sun reflecting off the glaciers above us. But the higher we climbed, the more confident we became about our decision. The gravel became big boulders, and as we nav

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