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I needed a nice bottle of olive oil. We had moved across the country in January and were now in month three of the COVID-19 pandemic my expectations were lowered enough that homemade pesto sounded like an extravagance. Helplessly bound to my own demographic profile (“buy local!” “spend a little more and buy quality!”), I found myself driving 25 minutes to the suburbs outside of Buffalo, all the way to a boutique olive oil store called Prima Oliva.
Inside, the store telegraphed its status in the same way a boutique cigar or wine store would: medium-roast wood shelves and plenty of negative space. The olive oils were stored in small stainless steel drums (fusti), each with a small tap. A small laminated sign hung from each drum featuring varietal information and tasting notes. The shop owner took an empty glass bottle from a wall of them and filled it up with arbequina olive oil. The quality of the olive oils were, in part, guaranteed by a robust standard called Ultra Prem