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Despite my adventurous pedigree, your author is somewhat of a late bloomer when it comes to skiing, picking up some poles and donning my boots in the exotic Milton Keynes snowdome at the ripe old age of 38. And while a ski trip has become somewhat of an annual pilgrimage, it has been very much a set of variations on a common theme. A concrete micropolis high in the French Alps, inhabited by a multicultural meleé of seasonnaires, University ski club trips and ski-school snakes. Up early, ski hard, drink harder, repeat until the legs or the liver gives out. This year I vowed to discover something more nuanced, more cultural, more compelling. With my hunters hat on, my cappello da cacciatore perhaps, I headed to the Italian Dolomites. Travelling in my usual style, trading a wipe-clean pay-to-breathe Ryanair flight for a jaunt on a Skyalps turboprop was a dream. A nimble little plane (more private jet, less cattle car) whisked me to the small and delightfully efficient Bolzano airpor

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