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A trip that ll be frozen in my memory forever: I survived -27C chasing the Northern Lights (and here s how to photograph them using only a smartphone)

MailOnline Travel s Laura Sharman visits the frozen wilds of Norway, where she dons six layers of clothing to gaze upon the aurora borealis, spots sperm whales - and relaxes in an ice hotel.

United kingdomIvar naessHordur holmLaura sharmanSami herolinaCarlo albertoClarion hotelNorthern lightsArctic circleOnline travelMailonline travelSolar maximumWild westTromso airportClarion hotel the edgeTromso bridge

The Arctic frontier town with fun nightlife — and northern lights

Go whale watching, reindeer sledding, sauna hopping and cosy pub crawling on a weekend in walkable Tromso

United kingdomBruxelles capitaleFrance generalOda kvaal tanguaySpiseriet konditoriKaffebonna stortorgetPolar museumClarion hotelThon hotel polarArctic circleGulf streamRaketten barSweet temptationsTromso bridgeToblerone shaped arctic cathedralSami shop

Fjords, Waterfalls and Viking History: Sailing North in Norway

While it’s literally an everyday occurrence, the departure felt momentous, like a shipload of explorers launching north, searching .

North capeSouth australiaNew south walesLofoten islandsArctic oceanShutterstock tromsoBabumon shutterstockAnibal trejo shutterstockLana shutterstockShutterstock hurtigrutenHanseatic leaguePolar bear societyFar northNorth atlanticArctic circleTromso bridge

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