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“If you see a step up, it’s time to change your shoes,” said Llew Thomas, our tour leader, as we entered the guesthouse. Wooden geta sandals were lined up in a row but slipping into them was no easy feat. It required balance and dexterity to remove our boots and step up without touching the mud-flecked entrance floor again. Wearing the right footwear in the right place is huge in Japan; there are even special plastic sliders for the lavatory.

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