I took great satisfaction in banning one Christmas tradition in our house this year: smoked salmon. And it’s been the simplest, easiest action because out went salmon and in came trout. It’s an easy swap because trout is so delicious, so rich and so creamy. And a chef friend, Tim Zekki, who runs a restaurant in our nearby town of Wiveliscombe, makes the change even more glorious because he does his own cure to a brand called ChalkStream. He buys a whole or a side of the fish, skins and fillets i
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