The penultimate scene in "The Endless Summer" is when Mike Hynson and Robert August climb over the top of a sand dune in South Africa to find a perfect reeling righthander, without a surfer in sight. At the time, Cape St Francis, a.k.a "Bruce's Beauties" as it was called in the .
The first surfboard Dick Metz owned weighed more than 100 pounds and was made out of solid redwood. These days, the surfing legend laughs thinking about dragging it around Laguna
This story is about the birth of the surfing as we know it and centers not only Bruce Brown's creation of "The Endless Summer," but what went into its creation.