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My first restaurant opened in Hoi An three decades ago. At the time, Hoi An was an old trading village and Vietnam was cut off from the western world thanks to a trade embargo designed to invert the result of what we call the American War. But us Hoianese persevered, and shortly after I served my first meals, a small group of New Zealanders trickled in for dinner. Australians and Europeans soon followed. By 1995, the United States was allowing trade between our countries to resume and our “Ancient Town” began to blossom into the major tourist destination that it is now.