The Tenderloin Room is an old-fashioned steakhouse in a grand hotel, the Chase Park Plaza. The restaurant's original 1922 woodwork has been restored to a burnished splendor, and it's worth the price of admission just to see it. Bask in the clubby Jazz Age milieu as plates of aged prime beef and veal chops are set before you by deft waiters gliding about the sumptuous room in starched white shirts and freshly pressed trousers. You can find food in town that's cleverer, but you can't buy a meal that's classier.