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The snow crab roll at Sushi Saint is a labor of love. Every delicate and deliciously rich ounce of meat in this high-style temaki is removed from the shell by hand and picked through meticulously. Twenty pounds of it a day. “The quality is so much better doing it this way that there wasn’t an option to say we can’t,” chef/owner Michael Collantes tells me. “This is the standard. And we’re .

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