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Tinker Bunny's Bathing Pool is as still and clear as glass. Each ribbon of seaweed and pale barnacle is visible in its teal depths, in contrast to the steely, white-capped Atlantic that churns beyond the rocks on which we're huddled. And you can tell, at a glance, the water is going to be freezing. Yet, here I am, dipping a toe into the water. The cold is curiously like fire, sparks erupting over my skin. 'Don't do it!' shouts the logical part of my brain. I sink deeper, planting one foot then the other on the granite ledges that form a set of slippery natural steps into the sea pool. Perhaps it's pure autopilot, or the desire not to chicken out in front of the strangers queuing up behind me, or the fact wild-swimming aficionado Sophie Hellyer is holding my hands, counting 'one-two-three-four' to help pace my breathing. Whatever the reason, I'm suddenly submerged up to the shoulders and the temperature becomes an abstract fact, something reg

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