One bit of Shay Landry's Reuben — stuffed full of succulent, smoke-laden meat — and you'll know that you're in the presence of one of St. Louis' great pitmasters. And it's not only the Reuben that stuns at Shay's Creole Smokehouse (912 South Main Street, St. Charles, 314-852-2803). Try the gumbo, and you'll be transported to Landry's Grandma Hazel's kitchen. Nibble on a rib and you'll marvel at how it has the perfect amount of tender chew. The burnt ends will leave you speechless.