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A year ago, I experienced a moment of heart-stopping beauty in the middle of a war. It happened in the House of Scientists in Odesa, built as a stately home by the Tolstoy family in the early 19th century. I had visited many more famous palaces, but few lovelier ones. The rooms were perfectly proportioned, and the colors harmoniously blended, but it was the textures that moved me the most. Gilded mirrors, inlaid walnut, silk upholstery, gleaming chandeliers, a parquet floor made with 22 varieties of oak all these surfaces gleaming, as in some Dutch Golden Age painting, with truer-than-life intensity. In one room, a music professor was playing Chopin on a grand piano that had belonged to Franz Liszt, and I felt tears pricking at my eyes. If my Ukrainian hosts were aiming to show me what they were fighting for, they succeeded.

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