“I WENT TO GREAT LENGTHS to find the top-shelf transsexuals,” Ruby Zarsky announced to a crowd of adoring chasers and twinks in black mesh tops.A few hours earlier, I’d arrived on time I’m a Virgo with good-at-school syndrome. We waded through a thick mist of men only to wait for the doors to open a few minutes after eight. Of course my friend Frankie and I were the first to arrive. She wasn’t pleased I’d dragged her along so early. We took a few laps around the room and got a drink. We were at “All Dolled Up,” the all trans-girl pop-up strip club put on last Thursday by UNTER, Ruby, and Seva