Like most South American countries, Colombia has many faces. But unlike anywhere else, it’s steeped in so many layers of history, heritage, and fiction in queal measure, it’s no surprise magical realism was born here and nowhere else in the world. Colombia is Cartagena with its colorful past and present, Colombia is Medellin, Colombia is the Andes Mountains and the chaos of Bogota, the crooked streets of Cali and the emerald greens of the Coffee Triangle, it’s the crazy zigzags of the Trampolin del Diablo trail and the generous curves of the Cocora Valley roads, but for me, the essence of Colombia is Santa Cruz de Mompox, a forgotten city in the crook of the arm of River Madgalena. It’s out of the way, Mompox: hidden in a hot, humid swampland way off the main roads or points of interest, it’s not on the adventure travel bucket list, nor does it come up as a must-see destination in Colombia. And yet, this is where Colombia reveals itself anew.