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With just a look, Sosima Olivera knows when her cherished agave plants will be ready to make mezcal, tequila’s lesser-known Mexican cousin whose fast-growing popularity is raising fears of overexploitation. The mezcal boom means a greater need for the land, water and firewood used to produce the smoky spirit, Olivera said. “This excess demand from national and international markets has consequences. If more plants are needed, of course there’s more exploitation,” said the 50-year-old, who heads a producers’ collective. Craft distillers like Olivera, who has dedicated her life to the process, aim to safeguard mezcal’s future with measures including seed banks and efforts

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