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India’s Fashion Artisans Face ‘Extreme Distress’ in Pandemic
India’s Fashion Artisans Face ‘Extreme Distress’ in Pandemic Workers at an embroidery factory in Mumbai, India, Feb. 12, 2020. [Image: The New York Times]
Saddam Sekh used to be a floor supervisor at a steamy Indian workshop in Mumbai that produced orders for an exporter working with some of the biggest names in luxury fashion, including Dior and Gucci. Day and night, he would watch as the karigars an Urdu term for the highly skilled artisans who specialize in handicrafts like embroidery, beading and appliqué stitched designer gowns destined for the Hollywood red carpet, or ornate samples for runway shows in Milan and Paris.
Synopsis
As each day marks a new grim COVID-19 milestone for India, many couture-level artisans are increasingly pessimistic about whether they can earn a basic livelihood, let alone focus on achieving fair working conditions, wages and contracts from their suppliers.
iStock
For years, part of the problem in Mumbai was that high demand for specialized handiwork led suppliers, which struggled to keep up, to sometimes sideline labor standards and recruit unregulated subcontractors.
Saddam Sekh used to be a floor supervisor at a steamy Indian workshop in Mumbai that produced orders for an exporter working with some of the biggest names in luxury fashion, including Dior and Gucci. Day and night, he would watch as the karigars an Urdu term for the highly skilled artisans who specialize in handicrafts like embroidery, beading and appliqué stitched designer gowns destined for the Hollywood red carpet, or ornate samples for runway shows in Milan and Paris.