CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE, Mass. — Here at the far edge of Cape Cod, where hills of white sand border a vast and empty shore, 19 rough-hewed shacks — tiny and unadorned, with no electricity or running water — sit within a wind-swept federal preserve. The dune shacks of Truro and Provincetown have long stood apart from the Cape’s soaring real estate market as weather-beaten symbols of a bohemian past and a rich literary and artistic heritage. Once a creative refuge for some of the nation’s great
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