we re here in rome and it s the most wonderful time of the year. no, it s not christmas, it s artichoke season. right now, markets across the city are humming with the sound of people hacking away at rome s favorite vegetable. so show me the artichokes. as i ve been finding out, with roman food, you sometimes have to dig a little to get to the good stuff. so this is for the carciofi romana alla romana. alla romana or alla giudia.
of the subway in 2014 has shaken up old poor neighborhoods of the city, nowhere more so than centocelle. i m meeting massimiliano, who s the editor of italy s most prestigious food journal, to find out what s going on. gentrification is moving in on this neighborhood and food is on the front line. the neighborhood was born during roman empire. centocelle is a roman name. c cento carceri is 100 jails in english. 100 jails? jails, yeah, exactly. there may never have actually been 100 jails here, but what this area does have is three new subway stations all within close proximity. these things change up the game, okay? yeah. a lot of people came here to try to invest a bit. yeah. is this where we re going?
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yeah, it s here. let s go in and see what he s got. centocelle has long had a rough reputation. that s changing fast though and one place that s seen by some as ground zero for the transformation of the neighborhood is a deli. vincenzo. ciao. vincenzo opened this place well before the metro arrived. he wanted to rehabilitate the surrounding lazio region s mediocre reputation for food and bring the best of the countryside back for his neighbors to enjoy at fair prices. right, right. can i taste some?
once trimmed, they can be deep fried to make one of my all-time favorite roman foods carciofi alla giudia, jewish fried artichokes. you know my grandmother and my mother would make these. ask anyone here and they ll tell you that this weird looking vegetable is a definitive roman food. thank you so much. but what i love is that under those rough outer leaves it contains an entire history. a story of how society s outcasts can change the habits of an entire city. these picturesque ruins once contained the misery of rome s jewish ghetto. from the 1500s onwards, the city s entire jewish community was locked in this walled area, only allowed to leave to do menial jobs in the daytime before being locked in at night.