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WHAT I have valued most in recent months about the gradual return to something akin to normality in this crazy, crazy world is being waited on. That must sound a bit, well, pompous – arrogant even – but what I mean is this. Most places can produce edible food these days so what makes the difference is the service, the welcome, the smile, the right degree of attentiveness and that feeling of wellbeing which comes from being looked after by somebody who actually cares that you re having a good time Most of us have eaten well – perhaps too well – during the last 16 months. We’ve either spent more time in our kitchens developing our inner Nigella Lawson or Jamie Oliver, or we’ve discovered the delights of the takeaway meal.