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Joanna Simon on the history, preparation, and wines to match with Ris de veau aux morilles, a modern classic dish from Champagne. 

France generalChampagne ardenneJoanna simonDomaine drouhin dundeePio cesare ornatoLes crayCharles heidsieckRight or left bankAnne willanMarne valleyBrie de meauxPinot noirCharles heidsieck millAlfred gratien brutLeft bank