peru a country historically driven mad, mad for gold, for cocoa, for ancient history. now something else is drawing outsiders to the hidden valleys. we love this stuff, obsess about it, gorge on it. i m talking about chocolate. what is a common treat is now becoming as nuanced as fine wine, making the pursuit of the raw, good stuff all the more difficult. i m joining that hunt in remoteest peru but not before i have re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene.