they bring you hot water bottles at night, put them under the covers. butlers keep popping in, build a nice fire. a great facet of my childhood was how my grandfather entertained. his table came to be known as perhaps the most famous in northern india because he was a gourmet, connoisseur of food. tonight, dinner at chapslee, an elaborate anglo-indian menu from reggie s childhood. i will put on my apron first. my fellow guests, two of reggie s friends. raja basile, a historian on the