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Just Jaeckin Wild frontier country isn’t really what the UK does. We’re more about cutesy villages and quaint seaside towns: Montana, we are not. But there is one last vestige of wilderness left, where the skies are big, the raw horizon stretches out and, importantly for this column, the roads are empty. And that’s Northumberland. Getting to this vast area just below the border with Scotland, defined by unbroken, untamed nature that sweeps across the North Sea and hits the land with vengeance, requires ingenuity if you live south of London, but the long day’s drive (or flight to Newcastle) is worth it for the solitary, rolling sand dunes of the North East coast, the high grasslands, the emerald expanse of the Kielder Forest and the

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