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Bibi Graetz: Primary colors

Robin Lee meets Tuscan winemaker Bibi Graetz as he shows off his new “grown-up toys”: the Balocchi di Colore limited-edition cuvées.

Andrew Jefford: Is there any duty on fine-wine producers to be accessible in some way?

The landscape of price and quality in wine was always undulating. It had peaks and summits as well as lowlands. Access, though, was open; we had the right to roam. Most of us could make our way out of the valleys and strike off up the slopes occasionally.

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