Three Roosters in Hell’s Kitchen is a Thai restaurant dedicated or perhaps obsessed with three distinct poultry preparations: fatty lemongrass grilled chicken, lean Hainanese chicken rice, and an airy breed of fried chicken showered in a puckery, lime-y powder. There are no other mains aside from that trio of birds. Want a salad? It automatically comes with chicken; there isn’t even a vegetarian option to omit the animal protein on the delivery page. And in case that’s not enough fowl, all three entrees come with a side of clear chicken broth so powerful it smells as if it were finished with a spoonful of schmaltz. There are just two starters, one of which is satay, or skewered chicken. The other appetizer, if it can be called that, is a pile of fries.