If you haven't heard of the formerly Michelin-starred chef Paul Welburn, then you are missing out. Welburn made his name under Gary Rhodes, winning a Michelin star at Rhodes W1, and then after various other high-end positions, he came to Oxford and won another Michelin star at his Summertown restaurant The Oxford Kitchen. Yet initially Welburn tired of the fine dining expectations placed upon him there, and turned the restaurant into a more casual establishment called 215. Then he wearied of that and announced that he would head off to pastures new, leading countless food bloggers and restaurant critics to speculate as to where he'd go next. The Randolph? Le Manoir? Back to London? Well, few predicted or expected what would happen next. Welburn can now be found cooking at a once-unassuming pub, the Swan in the small village of Islip, about eight miles away from Oxford. It was reopened at the end of last year by Nina Gray, after a lengthy and expensive refurbishment, and is es