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Between far-flung islands in Southeast Asia, Sarah Baxter goes underwater with some unusual creatures 22 February 2021 • 9:18am Sometimes they floated right towards my face; at other times I followed them, hypnotised by their gentle, pulsing ballet Credit: GETTY The tiny village of Mbuang Mbuang, on Indonesia’s middle-of-nowhere Banggai archipelago, had over-glamorous pretensions: its name was declared in large, white letters, Hollywood-style, on the hill just above. To be fair, its beach was A-list – a blinding dazzle of bright-white sand – and its stilted houses paddled in perfect-blue seas. However, the village itself was heat-drowsy; it seemed most of its residents were sitting beneath a rose apple tree, doing nothing much at all. Few outsiders had been here since my vessel, the Ombak Putih, last sailed by; the place felt within a fathom of falling completely off the map. No, Mbuang Mbuang’s greatest drama was below the surface.

Spice islandsMaluku utaraIndonesia generalSulawesi tengahRepublic ofUnited statesOmbak putihJoe muellerCalifornia college of marinSeatrek adventuresTravel banDiving holidaysActivity and adventureமசாலா தீவுகள்மாலுகு உத்தரஇந்தோனேசியா ஜநரல்