What is the perfect neighbourhood restaurant? It varies according to taste, budget and, indeed, the neighbourhood. I still remember the Michelin-starred chef Brett Graham telling me – apparently in all sincerity – that The Ledbury, then the holder of two Michelin stars, was such a place; well, it was in Notting Hill, so that might well be true. But for me, the ideal place to have as your local establishment should combine excellent food with a well-chosen and sensibly priced wine list, friendly and interested (and interesting) staff, a stylish room and, ideally, a location that makes you want to visit, even if you don't live nearby. Hammersmith, then, does not score desperately highly on the last criteria; it is an unlovely part of West London, with its shopping centres that time forgot and a general air of needing a good injection of something fresh. Which, thankfully, has arrived in the form of Faber, the seafood restaurant of your dreams. Its founders Matt and Anthony had s