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  Jason Horowitz, The New York Times  Published: 04 Jul 2021 12:51 PM BdST Updated: 04 Jul 2021 12:51 PM BdST An aerial view of the fishing village of Corricella on the Italian island of Procida, June 16, 2021. As Italy reopens to tourists, glamorous Capri and its quieter, grittier sister, Procida, prepare with joy and trepidation for an influx of visitors. (Susan Wright/The New York Times) The aperitifs arrived as the Capri sun dipped into an orange band across the Gulf of Naples and a couple on the terrace talked about how quiet the island had become. The hotel felt empty, and its barman, in elegant suit and tie, interrupted his revelry about the pre-pandemic days to shoo off a sea gull deprived of its usual tourist-scrap banquet.

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