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What's in a name? Well, in the case of Rails London – the Great Northern Hotel's aptly named restaurant – it's the renamed and rebranded version of what was Plum and Spilt Milk, itself given its nomenclature after its colour design. But now it has been given what's described as 'a total redesign and rebrand of the concept', and, in a nod to the nearby Eurostar, it's now giving its modern British dishes a French accent of sorts. In practice, this means that there's moules frites and steak frites on the menu, both of which look excellent, but we're not here to sample the delights of what awaits fortunate travellers a couple of hours away on the other side of the Channel; we want to see what the chef Stéphane Cerisier can come up with. It proves a fascinating, genre-blending experience, somewhere between a continental grand café and a very traditional, very English establishment. A starter of hot smoked salmon comes with the intriguingly