With the installation of Robert Kindler, a favourite of right-wing-radical professor Jörg Baberowski, a fundamental reorientation of the Institute for East European Studies is in train, away from studying the crimes of the Nazi regime and Polish-Jewish history.
As the city grapples with over-tourism, a new initiative aims to promote its lesser-visited outer reaches, where a mix of funky culture, historic gems and untamed greenery awaits