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The Salt Lake dining scene is dimming, it’s true. And the future looks dusky, too. But there is one blindingly bright spot that, unfortunately for it, opened at the beginning of the pandemic. Nohm outshines nine out of ten Japanese restaurants in town but so few of us have been dining out that it’s still somewhat a secret. Right next door to Water Witch, in the old Meditrina space on Harvey Milk Blvd., (formerly known as 900 South), Nohm is quietly designed, the main alteration from its predecessor being an open kitchen and sushi bar. It’s hard to describe ambiance in the time of Covid every place is quieter than it used to be and, frankly, that’s nice. Nohm is subtle, modern and serene. In a recent essay about how Covid is changing the restaurant business, Stuart Melling remarked he didn’t miss going out to eat as long as he could get restaurant-quality food; I don’t share his feelings. I like to enter a new place and I like to eat in a space designed to complement cui

Stuart mellingSalt lakeWater witchHarvey milk blvdNaked fishஸ்டூவர்ட் அரைத்தல்உப்பு ஏரிதண்ணீர் சூனியக்காரிஹார்வி பால் பில்ட்நிர்வாணமாக மீன்