There was a time when the European holiday calendar was set, if not in stone, then certainly within four defined boxes. Spring, summer, autumn, winter. One of these was hot, one was cold – and the other two offered a little of both. Pack your bags accordingly.
An hour after taking the 8.15am train out of Bergen I was hopping onto the platform at Voss, my train carriage equidistant from the Scandic Hotel, where I would be spending the night, and the cable car that would whisk me up to the resort’s slopes.
‘You know, the Swedish royal family come here to do exactly the same thing,” bellowed my guide, Anders Bjernulf, over the petrol caterwaul of the snowmobile. Th
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